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Submitted by: Bryce Brown
Date Added: 31-Dec-2010

OK I can't believe I need to post this but some very rude and inconsiderate climber shat at the bottom of 10% Real. Oh no, they did go off the trail a whole TWO FEET!! Unfortunately this placed their pile RIGHT at the belay stance for Off the Couch!!! Are you serious??? So I thought this was obvious, but I guess not: When nature calls and you are at the base of the climb please trek off into the woods! Maybe you think your log is some marvel of nature for all to see, but the rest of us don\'t need to smell or step in your crap! Also, while off in the bush, dig down and then cover it with a big rock to prevent it from being recycled by our dogs! You know who you are...
Submitted by: Chad Pomerleau
Date Added: 25-Dec-2010

I gotta jump in with Kyle here. The original style of the route should be respected.  It's debatable whether even the FA'ist should be able to change a route after it has been long established in the community.  I'd go so on to add 'Numb Hypothesis' and 'Stairmaster' to the list of recently modified routes.  While the option to just skip the offending bolt(s) is there, the added hardware detracts from the route aesthetic, style, and history.
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 24-Dec-2010

From all of us on the exec, I would like to wish everyone a fun and safe holiday. Merry Christmas and and Happy Healthy New Year.

Wes
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Date Added: 18-Dec-2010

Bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have noticed a lot of new bolts that don't belong in our crags. ie bolts added to 'Baboons in Heat' at Pass Lake, a fun climb with the original pro.  Now a  extra new bolt is there....No need for it, but it is there...we should be respecting the first ascentionist style, the way they originally developed the climb.. whether we feel it is "safe" or not  it is the style it was originally done.. As climbers we must respect this style and long last lasting tradition.
Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 14-Dec-2010

A big thank you to Wes for coaching a few of us through the fine art of ice screw sharpening this evening. He's got a keen eye for the task, knows just what it is we're supposed to be doing when sharpening those things and was pretty patient with his slower student - me.
Submitted by: Brian Bottan
Date Added: 12-Dec-2010

Two thumbs up to those that participated in today's trip leader workshop.  New section members Chad and Oman (welcome), new ice climbers Jeff and Terry and even some old faces returned (Barb, Deb, and Patrick).  Andrew, thanks for the hot chocolate it was delish!  And we can forget a big thanks to Nick for putting it all together.  Looking forward to seeing all of you out over the season.  Brian


Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 10-Dec-2010

No failure, just another, more intelligent, opportunity for success. And Yes I have mastered the ways of the RPS cheat. I leaned from Brian, he always cheats.

Karma? ahh, who needs it. I always run with scissors and I still have both eyes.
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 10-Dec-2010

Wes - you left the real reason for our failure out of the post on McRae - you CHEATED at RPS and it was karma catching up to you...ha!
Submitted by: Aric Fishman
Date Added: 09-Dec-2010

Hey hey everybody!
Hope you are all enjoying the playground of ice and snow we have!
I noticed that I lost an ice screw somehow 2 days ago...was hoping MAYBE somebody picked it up.
It is a 13cm Black Diamond Express screw (yellow knob). It has green and yellow marking tape on it.
If anybody found it or finds it, could you please send me an email or call my phone; it would be really appreciated. Beer reward!? :)
aricfishman@yahoo.ca
807-472-4742

Thanks!!
Have fun climbing!!
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 08-Dec-2010

An interesting photo contest to look into.
http://www.backcountryskiingcanada.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=Photo%20Competition


Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 08-Dec-2010

RE: OBEEK
The phone number for the Power Plant, confirmed correct today,  is 1-807-885-5571. It is monitored by a real person (!) 24/7. If you have cel coverage while enroute to the Power Plant for the OBEEK, calling ahead to let them know you are coming can save additional time.
Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 06-Dec-2010

This is a reminder that the Thunder Bay Section of the ACC has established a cache of emergency evacuation equipment in the Orient Bay area. “OBEEK” (Orient Bay Emergency Evacuation Kit) consists of a Yellow Jacket Basket Litter ( See: http://www.rescuestretchers.com/Baskets.page) with hoisting straps, a Ministry of Health spec back board, a stiff neck adjustable collar, a pocket mask with 02 filter/valve and assorted blankets and pads. The equipment is available for anyone to use to expedite the extraction of an injured person in the event of an emergency requiring a full EMS response. Transfer of this equipment can begin while waiting for the EMS, and working within the technical limitations of the rescuers involved, valuable time may be saved – the golden hour. OBEEK is located at the “Compressor Station” where climbers accessing Gomar Falls typically park. Follow the service road to the “Power Plant” at the back, where a pole-mounted phone (monitored 24/7) can be used to communicate with the attendant who will provide access to the equipment and further communications. On your next ice climbing trip to OB, play the “What If” game with your partners so you are better prepared for a bad turn of events.


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 03-Dec-2010

I did not even know there was a competition!

Andrew


Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 29-Nov-2010

Congratulations to Fred G. and Eric H. for their respective wins at the Wilderness Supply Bouldering Competition this past weekend and apologies to anyone I missed congratulating for their wins and participation.
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 23-Nov-2010

I apologize for the empty email most of you received today. Apparently there is a bug with the system. While investigating that bug I found another. I should have went into pest control
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 17-Nov-2010

http://www.youtube.com/user/petzlcrew#p/u/1/uG95yGRaooY
ice in scotland anyone?


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 11-Nov-2010

Hello everyone thinking of going to Duluth this weekend!
I am going down for Friday and Saturday night and planning on climbing Saturday for sure. I know Jeff, Eric, Kirsten, Jenn and Adrienne are going down for sure and may be car pooling. For anyone else thinking of going down the climbing gym opens at 11AM (CST) and if you leave Thunder Bay around 8AM (EST) you will be there just after they open. Come on down and enjoy the day of indoor climbing and checking out the downtown area of Duluth. If you are thinking of going down and not sure where you are going give me a call and I will be glad to tell you where to go!
Sincerely,

Andrew Dubinsky
621-0930


Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 04-Nov-2010

I've had some folks asking me about used ice gear I'm selling - see the Gear Swap section.  If you're interested let me know asap - it's going on the MEC gear swap in a couple of days.
Submitted by: Eric Tallon
Date Added: 03-Nov-2010

If anyone wants to reach me for climbing.

807-683-3776

or

erictallon@hotmail.com

 

Eric


Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 02-Nov-2010

Terry will set up gear for Club Climb tonight at Bluffs. It's a nice day. If anyone wants to get once last Tuesday night climb in, I figure we're good until ~6:30pm. I won't be there until just after 5pm though. Text me at 807-620-9538 with questions.
Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 01-Nov-2010

If you were at the Cinevate promo event a week ago, check out the following link.  A few pictures were posted by Dennis on their forum.  http://www.cinevate.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3919
Submitted by: Eric Tallon
Date Added: 27-Oct-2010

Anyone planning on a day trip for the Duluth weekend?  Looking for possible travel companions.
Eric


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 26-Oct-2010

I do not think that I will be climbing at the bluffs tonight have a great night everyone!

Andrew Dubinsky


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 18-Oct-2010

Thought you lead climbers may find this link interesting.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-lab-dangers-of-rope-worn-carabiners
Remember to inspect your gear and replace it when necessary! What is your life worth!
Andrew


Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 16-Oct-2010

Huge Thanks to Frank & Andrew for the 2 Part Rope Rescue Course put on this week.  Excellent skills, great leadership....and a fine day today at the Bluffs.
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 12-Oct-2010

October 13, 10 climbing at the bluffs.  I will be there at 4:30 to start setting up at the Orange wall.  I have to leave for an hour so if you are looking for my truck it willnot be there from 4:45 to 6:00  I will be back to help with tear down and hopefully get a few laps in.

Andrew


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 08-Oct-2010

An interesting link for the upcoming season!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/ice/gear/


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 27-Sep-2010

Tuesday Night Sept 28, 10

If nobody is at the zig zag wall I plan on setting up the climbs there on Tuesday night.  Afterwards, for those that are interested, everyone is welcome to my place for a bon fire, food and drinks and I can even light the sauna. 

Andrew


Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 27-Sep-2010

Just a reminder to sign up for Saturday's Rocktoberfest at Silver Harbour so we know how big a pile of eats we need!
Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 25-Sep-2010

It was too wet to rock climb at Orient Bay's Taj Mah Wall today, but those who hadn't been there before got a guided tour of the trail, routes and camp site. We also checked on the status of OBEEK, the club's cache of emergency evacuation equipment which is stored at the Orient Bay compressor station an all is well with the gear. It's ready for the next incident where an injured (probably ice) climber needs to be packaged and evacuated to awaiting EMS personnell. In fact, there's a new Stokes litter basket there as well so we're good for TWO carry-outs at the same time! We then transferred our climbing energies to Pass Lake where a few laps under sunny skies on two of the classics brought grunts of contentment from our small group. Sign up early for the next event!
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 21-Sep-2010

Looks like the weather is holding out for the day? Where do you want to climb?  Orange wall, galaxian area or zig zag????  If you have an opinion call me 621-0930 or meet me in the parking lot around 4:45ish or just look for me and the gear at one of the three locations.  Have a great afternoon everyone and see you tonight! 
Submitted by: Matt Alexander
Date Added: 15-Sep-2010

Thanks for a great summer of climbing. My contract is done at the end of this week and I'm heading back to Toronto. But I may return if my job applications are successful. Thanks for showing me the ropes everybody.
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 14-Sep-2010

The weather is holding out today!  I plan on setting up at the powerline tonight and start hiking in around 4:45'ish.  See you tonight!   Any Questions call me ---> Andrew 621-0930
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 10-Sep-2010

Just read an interesting article on Daisy Chains!   Watch the video 3/4 of the way down the article to put it all into perspective.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us

Happy Climbing everyone!


Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 07-Sep-2010

I just got off the phone with Ruth Chapman, the land owner for “Climbers Cliffs” at the Nor'West Outdoor Centre on Mountain Road. She asked for my help in getting the word out to climbers that if they would like to climb on her property, they must:

*Sign a waiver before accessing any of the climbing areas on her property,

*All be wearing helmets while in the climbing areas,

*Ask for permission to be on the property each and every time they visit. (Leaving a telephone message giving “notice” that they will be climbing is not acceptable.) Contact Ruth at 475-8346.

Please help get the word out that this is the way to continue enjoying a great crag.


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 07-Sep-2010

I am sorry to advise those fellow climbers that I will not be going to set up gear tonight.  After the rain this morning and the high likelyhood of more rain this evening I do not expect much of an attendance.

Don't forget to attend the executive meeting on THursday September 16th, 2010.  There is going to be free food and beverages and if you would like to step up and take over anyone of the executive positions please let us know!

Have a great night everyone and I will see you next week.  The fall events schedule should be posted soon. 

Sincerely,

Andrew Dubinsky 


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 31-Aug-2010

The rain that they were calling for dissipated south of the border and it looks like it is going to be a hot evening with lots of sun shine.   I will be at the bluffs tonight and plan on setting up in the zigzag area.  I hope to see everyone tonight!

 

Have a great day everyone!

Andrew 621-0930


Submitted by: Kevin Shorthouse
Date Added: 29-Aug-2010

Keep an eye out for poison ivy along cliff edges and outcrops at Squaw Bay! Found out the hard way doing a bush whack to find a way up First Buttress. Andrew Lang and I saw some more near base of 'Stuffin' Martha's Muffin'.
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 24-Aug-2010

Climbing is on tonight at the Bluffs.  I will probably set up the Galaxian area.  See you tonight!
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 24-Aug-2010

New reel rock film tour info out!  Check out their contest web page @ http://reelrocktour.com/contest/

 


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 23-Aug-2010

If anyone was wondering about Andrew Lang this year - He got a teaching job in southern ontario and his wife had a baby girl over the summer.
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 21-Aug-2010

Aaaahhh...the loose bolts. A constant problem, especially on new routes it seems. I carry a small adjustable wrench on my harness most days in the summer, Terry has a good idea there. And, as Kyle mentions in his shout below, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! As tight as you can get it is way too tight. Most folks are surprised at how tight "tight enough" actually is. Over tightening the bolts will compromise their strength.
Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 21-Aug-2010

Loose Bolts...I've noticed a large number of loose bolts at various climbs this year too. Old & new bolts.  I was wondering if the weather had something to do with it. I've bought a small adjustable wrench and carry it with me all the time now.
Submitted by: Jason Dayman
Date Added: 21-Aug-2010

Hi everyone,

I feel pretty stupid a bout this one...... I have once again left some blue cordalette and 4 silver locking biners at the top of Richard's Crack at the bluffs on thursday night. Same gear, same route, same guy, so if anyone came across them just send me an email - jaydayman@hotmail.com or give me a shout 807-472-7444 and I can humbly come and pick them up at your convenience........ or maybe you should just keep them, I apparently haven't learned anything. Thanks again to Alex for finding and returning them last time and everyone I've met climbing in thunder bay, there's some really great people out there!

Jason
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Date Added: 21-Aug-2010

hi  everyone ...  Many of the recent bolts placed at silver harbor in recent months,  are in need of tightening   so if you remember a wrench snug them up .   Duncan and I had to on 2 sets  of anchors the other day..   suggest using torque wrench 20ftps     Do not over tighten.    
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 20-Aug-2010

Just came across this article about granite and thought it was interesting for those wanting to know about the rock we climb on around here.

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/above/10_things_granite/

Number ten in an interesting one!


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 10-Aug-2010

Weather looks great for today!   I will plan on being in the bluff's parking lot by 4:45 today and I think Ornge wall is on the hit list for today.  I look forward to seeing everyone out today!

I did a vehicle shuffle and will be driving my wife's grey nissan xtrail today.  I am hoping to go out to the mad house after as well for those that are interested! 

Have a great day folks and see you tonight.


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 03-Aug-2010

Watching the weather radar today and the bluffs did not get much rain hope to see everyone out climbing tonight.

 

Andrew Dubinsky


Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Date Added: 28-Jul-2010

*Warning*  A few of us noticed the new anchors installed on the face of "cliffhanger" , at silver harbor, are located in a large block with fractures on all sides. This block is also resting on a 45 degree angle with a mud-filled seam at the back.


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 27-Jul-2010

Had a great night out  climbing tonight (July 27, 10) with the clubs regular tuesday night at the Bluffs.   I hope to see more people out climbing next week! 


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 20-Jul-2010

I will not be bringing the gear to the Bluffs tonight ( July 20, 2010) as it will to wet.  I hope to see all of you next week.  If you have any questions please call me at 621-0930 Andrew Dubinsky
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 13-Jul-2010

Climbing will be at the bluffs tonight and I should be in the parking lot by 4:45 ish.  Look for the grey dodge dakota! or if you are running behind and plan on showing up a little later in the evening call me let me know @ 621-0930.

Andrew Dubinsky


Submitted by: Matt Alexander
Date Added: 09-Jul-2010

Hi Folks, I moved to Thunder Bay about a month ago and now that I'm settled in nicely I'd like to get out and do some climbing. I'm a bit of a newbie though and all I've got is shoes as far as gear goes. Still, if you're feeling friendly and looking for a partner send me a note. I work 9 to 5 monday to friday, so weekends are best. I'm also looking to borrow a bicycle for the summer (or buy one for under $300). My commute is about 10km each way so a good bike would be better than a bad one. - Matt alexanderthematt@gmail.com
Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 09-Jul-2010

Jason and his gear have been reunited. Karmi- kudos to all involved.

Frank
Submitted by: Jason Dayman
Date Added: 27-Jun-2010

Hi,

I was just wondering if anybody has found some gear I left behind at the bluffs on tuesday, June 22. I left behind 4 silver locking biners and a 4' loop of blue cordalite set up as an anchor on richard's crack (back by the powerline wall) . I was hoping someone may have come across it as I was leaving around 5-6pm (just as it seemed that the ACC was setting up for tuesday night at the bluffs). I can be reached at 807-472-7444 or jaydayman@hotmail.com. Thanks everyone, have a great summer of climbing!

Jason
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 25-Jun-2010

Experience Gooseneck
July 1 to 4th
 
Manitoba section is inviting all Alpine Club members to a 4 day climbing event. Explore the many facets of fine granite on this extensive cliff, for one day or all four.
There will be nightly wiener/marshmallow roasts to share the days highlights by. Also, a canoe and slack-line may be available for use or bring your own. Re-connect with old friends, make some new ones. Join the Camp Dandelion councillors on this climbing extravaganza.
 
Participants should bring their own food,water, climbing and camping gear. Ropes and helmets and a big mesh tent will be provided by the club. As well as the hotdogs.  For more complete information and to sign up contact Toni catnip@mts.net or (204)334-5033

Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 15-Jun-2010

Burnt Anchors at top of Cliffhanger/Flow at Silver Harbour....returned???

I was at SilverH last night and noticed the burnt anchors were returned onto the original bolts at the top of Cliffhanger & Flow.  These bolts were removed a couple months ago after clear evidence of a recent bon-fire directly on top of the anchors and blue discoloration of one of the rap-rings and anchor. (I believe it was Nick from AB who removed them for safety.)

I would suggest that anyone using these anchors do so with extreme caution, use additional back-up anchoring or DO NOT USE THEM AT ALL.

There are new anchors at the top of Cliffhanger, though not obvious from the top.  Located over the edge for easier lead-climb access. 


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 09-Jun-2010

I have gone to the bluffs the last few tuesday to see if anyone wanted to get a lap in before the rain hit but nobody showed up leaving me to feel like one of the creepy single guys in the the parking lot.  If you plan on getting out to a Tuesday night and are running late call me to let me know.  621-0930.  I can make sure i wait for you or I can go and get the climbs set up and ready for when you get there.

If anyone has anything they want to work on besides there climbing skills please let me know and I will be glad to help.  The last few Tuesday's that we have been able to climb we worked on Top Belays and Rappeling, does anyone have anything else that they would like to learn?

See you all soon

Andrew Dubinsky

621-0930


Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 30-May-2010

Thanks again to Andrew and Frank for leading another great club event at Lost Falls!
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 25-May-2010

Actually, I was referring to Pass Lake, just your regular old bolt theft (again).
Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 25-May-2010

1st...Thanks Dallas! Glad to hear you liked the route. Still need to get back and work on Mighty Moose to the left.

2nd... Nick B, if you're referring to the anchors on top of Cliffhanger/Flow at Silver Harbour, I believe Nick R. removed those when they put new bolts directly at the top of Cliffhanger and the climb to the right. The reason the old bolts were removed, according to Nick R when I spoke with him and based on my own observations as well, was some less-than-intelligent fire-philes built a significant fire directly on top of the original bolts on the top-center of the Cliffhanger/Flow prow. Nick R was justifiably concerned about the safety of those anchor bolts and hangers after being subjected to that kind of heat and felt removing them would be in everyones' best interest.

Hope this helps clear-up at least one incident...


Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 24-May-2010

Why do people STILL insist on stealing bolt hangers from the top anchors on popular sport routes? STILL? It's cheap, dangerous, and BAD karma.
Submitted by: Dallas Markall
Date Added: 20-May-2010

We werer out at Silver Harbour last weekend and climbed Home of the Beaver. It is a nice route and the top 1/2 has some fun moves. The 5.9 rating seems right on. Good job Terry.
Submitted by: Jason Dayman
Date Added: 17-May-2010

Hi everyone,

I just moved to Thunder bay this week and don't really know anyone as of yet, I'm looking for some climbing partners. I'm fairly new at climbing (second season)  but have taken a lead course while I was in Thailand and can lead 5.9's and top rope5.10a-b. I have my own kit for sport climbing, (rope, draws, ect) and work evenings, so I'm available most mornings and early afternoons. If anyone is interested in getting out for a climb and showing me some of the local crags that would be wicked! Just drop me a line at jaydayman@hotmail.com or give me a call on my cell 807-472-7444.

Jason


Submitted by: Terry Prodanyk
Date Added: 16-May-2010

Thanks to Andrew Dubinski for taking the group of us from the ACC to Palisade Head! GREAT TIME!
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 23-Apr-2010

There is still last-minute room for folks that wish to attend the leadership seminar this weekend with Cyril Shokoples.  I had a couple of voicemails this week from folks I wasn't familiar with inquiring, but one did not leave a return phone number for me and the other message expired in my voicemail (damn tbaytel!) before I could return the call.  The seminar begins this evening with a short outdoor session (6pm at the Bluffs parking lot) and the remainder of the seminar will be indoors at Con College on Sat and Sun.

This is a great opportunity for both experienced and prospective/beginning ACC trip leaders.  More info is here.
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Date Added: 18-Apr-2010

Silver Harbor Updates

New 5.13b-c left of Silver Harbor dream line with anchors called Stirling...F.F.A: Nick Rochacewich April, 2010
New anchors added to the 12a finger crack left of "Wit of a ninja"
New anchors added to the top of "Tan lines"
New anchors added to "Wit of a ninja"
New anchors added on "Cliff hanger" to reduce rope drag.
New anchors added to the top of "Return to sender"

Open Project with one bolt far left of Black stallion arete, mixed climbing with anchors

Claghorn Updates

New 5.11b Right of "Gift of the trees" called the  "The Negotiator"
10 bolts with anchors

New 5.12a Right of The Negotiator called the "The Drifter"
12 bolts with anchors

New Open projects
5.12 ? Open project 6 bolts, mixed protection with anchors
New 5.14? Open project with 12 bolts anchors


Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 13-Apr-2010

Tuesday Night Rock Climbing at the Bluffs will start as of April 13, 2010 and continue until late October 2010.  Meet me in the Bluffs parking lot at 4:30'ish and will start hiking in by 4:45 to start setting up the climbs.  If you would like to come early to practice your top rope set ups come early to help with the set ups.  At any time that you want to learn something new during the regular Tuesday Night climbs let me know, I will be glad to help you the best that I can.  If you have a specific spot you would like to climb, meet me in the parking lot by 4:45 and let me know. 

I hope to see all the 100 + local section members out throughout the summer rock season.

Andrew Dubinsky 

621-0930 if you have any questions 

PS the newsletter and events schedule will be out in the next couple of weeks.


Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 06-Apr-2010

Just a reminder to everyone that the deadline to register for the Section's Summer Mountaineering Camp is fast approaching. There are still a few spots available, contact me for more info.
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 10-Mar-2010

Seen a few disturbing things lately, so I thought a general rant might be in order - there seems to be a few folks climbing in the area as of late that need to get their act together when it comes to their descent anchors. In the last 3 weeks, while out and about, I've encountered no less than seven (7) exceptionally dangerous rappel and lower-off anchors left by other climbers. The two most common themes are improperly tied-off ice screws (in both cases, this could have been easily avoided), and dangerously tied-off v-thread (abalakov) anchors. In two of the cases, the anchors were within a whisper of catastrophic failure. I'd tactfully like to suggest that folks may want to review their skills in these regards - specifically, the correct situation and technique for tying off screws, and the correct way to tie a double or triple fishermen's knot. Also, equalizing an anchor properly is also apparently lost on some people. In many cases, I think this is part of an alarming trend I've seen lately for people to learn "just enough" and do what's "good enough" and start getting after it. Gravity is a harsh mistress, and learning these very basic skills correctly may just save the life of you or your partner. You may be casual about your climbing, but don't be casual about your basic climbing skills. I'm happy to do a demo or clarify this for anyone interested. EDIT: Thanks Wes for adding the photos.


Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 10-Mar-2010

There was a wee incident on Obsession last Friday which resulted in an out-of-town climber leaving some gear behind on Obsession. If anyone happened to be up there recently and recover any booty, plenty of good karma awaits you if you return it. Contact me through this website and I'll put you in touch with it's owner.
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 27-Feb-2010

The Section Mountaineering Camp stuff has been posted - see the Events section for details - and if yer keen, email Nick asap!
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 23-Feb-2010

Tired of fighting with dull screws? I am offering a screw sharpening service to club members free of charge. Give me a call and we can set up a time for you to drop them off and pick them up.
Wes 627-9583
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 22-Feb-2010

Just a note to everyone. I have replaced the TR bolts on the climbers right on top of Cascade falls. These bolts were 20+ years old, far exceeding their useful and safe life. This is not a rap station so please do not add rings or quick links to it unless they are stainless. The steel cable rap station is located on a group of large birch trees, 10 metres further up.
Submitted by: Eric Landmann
Date Added: 16-Feb-2010

Hey everybody,We're looking for some photos to add to our galleries for the Nipigon Ice Fest. We have a gallery for Orient Bay, one for Kama Bay, and one for Ice Fest activities. If you have some photos to be considered, please send them to me with information including:
Route Name
Rating
Climber's Name
Photographer's Name
Year (if known)

Also we are open to ideas or suggestions about the site, please send them on.Thanks,
Eric Landmann
midwest@climbingcentral.com
608-271-5271
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 28-Jan-2010

I see the 2010 Nipigon Ice Fest Site is up and being developed!!  It has been set up to register but the rest of the links have not been made yet.

http://www.nipigonicefest.com/home


Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 24-Jan-2010

Thank you to Andrew D. et al for affording the opportunity to have Jack's tool reattached. I know how awkward it must have been for Jack to be without it for that period of time. Karmic juju with mojo topping to all of youse for your efforts!
Submitted by: Andrew Dubinsky
Date Added: 18-Jan-2010

I was talking to a non climbing friend the other day and she told me a friend of hers was driving down the highway and found an ice axe on the side of the road, just this side of Kama!  It apparently had an interesting nic name on it!  Does anyone now who lost an axe? or maybe two with the other one waiting to be found?  I am awaiting more details from her, but call me if you need more details!  621-0930!
Submitted by: Frank Pianka
Date Added: 10-Jan-2010

If anyone is going in to Ice Station Superior by the usual descent through the woods after hopping the guard rail, please keep an eye out for the single Nomic tool that Jack thinks he dropped while hiking out on Saturday, Jan 9. Big find for big Jack = BIG karma for you! Info: fpianka@hotmail.com
Submitted by: Brian Bottan
Date Added: 10-Jan-2010

Found a pair of black sunglasses and Whitelightning the other day (at the base of the climb). They don't look expensive but if you want them shout me back. Brian


Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 07-Jan-2010

BUMP - Anyone lose some gear? Was up for my usual after work laps in the bowl tonight and found some NICE SHINY BOOTY on the first pitch of Ice Stud. Contact me through the club website with a description and it's yours again! A wee anchor tip will come free with the returned gear.
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 04-Jan-2010

Gee, I wonder how I can make it more obvious that everyone should read the lastest news item... hmmmmI got it, blinking red text. oh yeah, nothing says I'm a tool if I don't read this more than blinking red text. Unless you are a IE user, then all my efforts are wasted.
Submitted by: Nick Buda
Date Added: 04-Jan-2010

Was up for my usual after work laps in the bowl tonight and found some NICE SHINY BOOTY on the first pitch of Ice Stud. Contact me through the club website with a description and it's yours again! A wee anchor tip will come free with the returned gear.
Submitted by: Wes Bender
Date Added: 04-Jan-2010

I would rather you didn't. It is just going to cause me more work. How, you ask? Well what I am going to do is visit your photo hosting site and rip your photos from there and upload them to the club site under the appropriate posting. Why do all that you ask? Well Content not hosted on this server is not within my control. So lets say you put a link to a photo, then you delete your photo without coming back to our site and editing your post. Now our site has a broken link. Or you mistakenly overwrite your photo with something not suitable for the viewers or context of this site.
Please just use the site upload and make sure your photos are small enough (Less than 1.5 megs). My internet connection blows and it still doesn't take longer than a minutes to upload 3 photos for my posts. Andrew you know my personal email so if you are having other issues that are making it more of a pain for you. You can always email them to me and I will upload for you.
Wes


Submitted by: Andrew Lang
Date Added: 04-Jan-2010

Hey Wes can we link pictures to our posts? i have my pics on flickr, but they are taking forever to upload here? Andrew

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Quotable Quotes

If you're going climbing with young people, you get very, very used to seeing your partner as a tiny little dot.

 ~Chris Bonington, in his fifties