Sandstone climbing! A great change of pace from the standard diabase norwesters that make up most of our crags. This crag has it all: roadside location, short drive (~30minutes), southern exposure and a lot of routes. Beat the summer heat by jumping in the like across the road, or duck into Karen's Kountry Kitchen, literally right across the road for a coffee and an interesting dessert.
This is the spot to be if you like to push the rock climbing season a bit into the colder months, as it warms up fast on sunny afternoons. A few diehard rockclimbers have been spotted sport climbing into February! It is popular with topropers and sportclimbers alike, and even offers a few interesting trad lines. Don't miss Go Joe (5.7) and Wildchild (5.8) when you visit.
Classic sport climbs include Unfinnished Symphony (5.11a/b), the incredibly sustained Unknown Pleasures (5.11d), Chinese Water Torture (5.11a), and the incredibly desperate Flying Circus (5.10c). Not all the best climbing is difficult however...try Cave Crawler (5.7) and the Mike Project (5.9).
Topropers will find cliff access easy via quick scrambles to the top and bolted top rope stations.